Libris Britannia 4/science library(b).zip/science library(b)/ENGINEER/2908.ZIP/ANGLES.HLP

Text File | 1990-11-02 | 14KB | 292 lines

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                          ANGLES.HLP Ver. 2.0

                   Copyright 1990, Robert W. Kascak

        None of this printed material may be reproduced in any form
               without written permission from the author.

                19 Laurel St., Trumbull, Ct., 06611-3919

             Documentation for angles.wks and related files.

             DEFINITIONS See Figure 1                           Page 1

A  = Angle to set tilt of saw          BD = Base diam. of container
B  = Bottom panel width                c  = code used  in computations
d  = another code used for reference   H  = Heigth of container (vert.)
L  = Length of panel at center line    LE = Length of panel along edge
M  = Miter guage setting for side cut  P  = Pitch of slope (in. per ft.)
s  = number of sides                   S  = Slope of container sides
T  = Top panel width                   TD = Top diam. of container


        If you have the computer program, page 1 allows input of innum-
erable combinations of sizes for the container you wish to make. The
sceen will will give you the angles and dimensions you need.  These may
also be printed out for reference in your workshop.

        If you are using the "WKS" file on LOTUS(r) or similar spread-
sheets (shareware program ASEASYAS(c)), you can print out your own
sheets to use in your workshop.


        EXPLANATIONS OF  'ANGLES' SHEETS and 'WKS' SPREAD SHEETS

        * To use the figures for construction you MUST remember that all
measurements and angles of the containers and panels are from the
position of the container on the bench with the larger end down.

        * All 'angles' sheets are grouped according to the number of
sides on the container being made.

        * Although most figures are carried out to 3 places after the
decimal,the accuracy of fit and the neatness of the finished joints are
solely dependent on the accuracy you maintain.

        * For those not totally familiar with "micrometer" measurements;
the first number after the decimal represents 1/10 of one inch, the
second number after the decimal represents 1/100 of an inch.  This
should be all the accuracy you need for woodworking.

        * Sheets A - 1 through A - 3 contain the code (c) which
represents the difference between the bottom diameter (BD) and the top
diameter (TD), width is measured accross from flat side to flat side on
all containers with an even number of sides.  On containers with an odd
number of sides (5) the measurement is taken from one flat side to the
opposite point.  This sheet also contains the width measurement of each
of the panels at the bottom (B) and at the top (T).  For containers with
an odd number of sides (7 etc.) please contact me for the adjustments to
your measurements.


                                                                Page 2

        * Sheets B - 1 through B - 3 contain the code (c) for reference
to the proper column for the length (L) of each panel, the angles of
slope (S), miter (M) and bevel Angle (A).

        * Sheets C - 1 through C - 2 are used for covers, lids, or roofs
with no top diameter (peaked).  They contain all the above measurements
except top diam. (TD) and top panel width (T), but add length of the panel
edge (LE) in case you wish to create a round cover without the panels
flat lower end. This length is used in place of the panel length (L) to
allow for cutoff waste.


        INSTRUCTIONS FOR USING 'ANGLES' SHEETS and 'WKS' SPREAD SHEETS

        o Once you have determined the number of sides, height, top and
bottom diameters of your container, you can use the 'angles' sheets to set
up your saw and cut the panels to the proper length and width.  The top
and bottom edges of the panels or stock used MUST be parallel.  Accuracy
of the angles and cuts is at the discretion of the builder.  It is best to
use a protracter head square to set up all angles as close as possible to the
specifications.

        o Using one of the "A" sheets, locate the (BD) bottom (largest)
diameter of the container you are building in the top row across the page.

        o Next locate the (TD) top diameter of the container down along
the left column.  Where these two lines intersect you will find three
numbers.  Record these numbers for reference.

        o The top number 'c' is your reference for sheets in the "B"
group. The 'B' row is the bottom width of the panel you are making.  This
dimension is taken from the widest edge at the bottom of the panel.  The
'T' row is a measurement taken at the widest edge at the top of the panel
and is correct when the miter angle has been cut correctly.

        o Using the reference number 'c' go to sheets in group "B",  Find
the reference number in the top row and the height you wish down the left
column.  Record the numbers where the two lines intersect.

        o The intersection of these two points will give you the Slope 'S'
of the sides of your container measured from the HORIZONTAL.  The length
'L' of each panel measured along the center line.  The miter 'M' which you
will use to set your cutoff miter guide on the saw table.  The bevel 'A'
is the angle used to set the tilt table or saw blade.

        o The sheets in the "C" group are for lids, covers, bird house or
bird feeder roofs, or containers which come to a point in the center.

        o These sheets can also be used for converting degrees of slope to
inches per foot of pitch as used in roof construction.




                                                                Page 3
                      CONSTRUCTION SECTION

                GETTING STARTED:

                If you have the disk, you can do the following.

                Boot up to dos.  Type 'Graphics' (or the program
                you use for your printer graphics)

                Put ANGLES disk into default drive, turn on printer
                and type 'COPY ANGLES.DOC PRN'

                To run from DOS, type 'ANGLES'

                To run in BASIC, load your basic and type 'RUN"ANGLES

                From menu, select choice #4

                When figure #1 is on the screen use 'shift print-screen'
                for hard copy of graphic

                Repeat with figures 2, 3, and 4

                Save these for reference when using program


        Figure 1(B) is the top view illustrating where the measurements
are taken from on a container with an even number of sides.  These
measurements are taken from the outer edges both at the bottom and top of
the flat panels.  For containers with an odd number of sides, the point on
one side is used for the measurements.  In figure 1(D), you will note that
the LARGER end is resting on the bench and is referred to as the bottom.
The containers are positioned this way for construction and with reference
to 'containers' and'panels'. although they will be turned over for use.
What is referred to now as the bottom will be the open top of the finished
bucket or container.  Naturally, covers and roofs are used as constructed.

        In figure 1(A) and 1(C) the panel a-a from figure 1(D) is enlarged.
Figure 1(A) shows the miter angle (M), the length (L), and the edge length
(LE).  The top measurement of the panel (T) is taken at the outside top
edge of the panel. The measurement (B) is taken at the bottom outside edge
of the panel. In figure 1(C), which is the bottom edge of the panel, you
can see the bevel angle (A) measured from the outside surface of the cont-
ainer which is the amount of table saw tilt.


        REMEMBER: THE MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PANELS AND THE CONTAINER ARE
TAKEN WITH THE LARGER END DOWN.  THIS IS THE WAY IT IS CONSTRUCTED.  IT IS
INVERTED AFTER COMPLETION.


        o A protracter head square and a 'T' bevel are necessities for
accurately setting all of the angles.  The fit of the joints is critical
for good gluing surfaces.  Use a very smooth cutting blade for glue joints.



                                                                Page 4

        o Cut the panels to length 'L' if they are being made with the
grain running up and down, being sure the ends are EXACTLY PARALLEL.

        o Set the tilt table or the tilt arbor to 'A' degrees.  Use a
protracter head square to insure accuracy of angles.

        o Use a wooden extension, long enough to cut the panels on either
side of the blade, clamped to the miter (cutoff) head.  Set the miter head
facing left of center, to a reading of 'M' degrees using the protractor
head square.  Place the OUTSIDE FACE of the panel down against the table
with the TOP (narow end) of the panel against the miter guage extension.
Make this cut using the left side of the blade.   See figure 2(A).

        o Flip the panel end for end, such that the INSIDE FACE is on the
table and the BOTTOM (wide end) of the panel is against the miter guage ex-
tension.  Use a stop clamped to the right side of the miter guage extension
or on the rip fence, to make repeat cuts equal to the dimension 'B', see
figure 2(B).  Make the second cut on the right side of the blade,
see figure 2(C).

        o If the grain is to run across the panels (ie: for a shallow type
of container) AND you can use both sides of the stock, rip one piece of
stock as wide as the panels are to be long 'L'.

        o Set the tilt table or tilt arbor to 'A' degrees.  Use the
protractor head square to insure accuracy of angles.  Set up is the same
as cutting a single panel.

        o Make the first cut on the left side of the blade, see figure
3(A).  Flip the board over so the opposite edge is against the miter head
extension and the opposite surface is against the table.  Slide the end of
the board against the stop set for measurement 'B', see figure 3(B).

        o Make the cut on the right side of the blade, see figure 3(C).
The second cut on the first panel also makes the first cut for the next
panel.  Continue to flip the board and cut each panel with the end against
the stop until all panels are cut.  This system eliminates almost all waste.

        o To cut the rabbit for the smaller end, (which will end up as the
bottom of the bucket or container) set the saw tilt to the slope 'S' of
the container.  Clamp on a rip fence extensioin to keep the panels upright,
and rabbit the inside narrow end of each panel to the depth of the insert
that will be used.  The rabbit can be less than half the thickness of the
panels.  Use the right side of the blade for these.  See figure 4.

        o For containers with a slope 'S' of less than approximately 15
degrees, assemble dry using many heavy rubber bands to hold it together
while you check the fit.  If you wish, you can mark each piece for
reassembly and fit the end panel now (this will eventually be the bottom
of the container).


                                                                Page 5


        o On panels of less than 3/8 inch thick, a good grade of glue is
all that holds the container together.  When gluing, a handful of rubber
bands serves as very efficient clamping.  On containers with more than
15 degrees, make a jig or frame for holding the  panels tightly in place
until the glue has had time to dry.  You may prefer waterproof glue.

        o If the panels are made of wood that is heavy enough,then
dowels, splines, or biscuits can be used for strength.


        INNOVATIONS:

        o To make an oval container, cut two side panels with a bottom
width 'B'and a top width 'T' larger than the others using the same length
'L' ,the same miter 'M' and the same bevel angle 'A'.  The difference be-
tween the width and length of the container will be whatever amount you
added to the two side panels.

        o An 8,12,16,20,or 24 sided container could be made with handles
on each end by making 2 of the panels a little longer 'L' and either
cutting a finger slot in the top of each one or adding a handle on the
outside.  Width 'B'must be measured at distance 'L' from the top, the
same as the other panels. see note *  Figure 4(B)

        o Small feet could be added to the bottom by cutting flats on
wooden balls similar to the ones used for door harps and fastening them to
the four corners on the bottom after assembly.

        o Copper wire bands can be used on the outside for strength as
well as decoration.  Another way would be to flatten 3/16 or 1/4 inch
copper tubing and use it for a band or two around the container.  By
filing away half of the tubing on opposite sides where it joins, it can
be soldered almost invisibly.  This is very effective when used on small
buckets.

        o Shallow containers, covers and roofs can be made with a round
or scalloped outer edge.  see note *

        o Panels would be cut a little longer than 'L' (allowance must
be made for the added length to maintain the top diameter if it is
critical, see note **), and cut at a radius (less than 'L') on the wide
end to make a scalloped edge on the container.

        *  note:  In these cases if you wish to make the outer edge into
a circle; cut the miter angle and the bevel angle using the length of the
edge 'LE' instead of 'L' as the center length of the panel, see note **,
after cutting the miter and the bevel scribe an arc on each panel with a
radius of 'LE'.  When trimmed to this line and assembled, you should have
a circle at the outer edge.

         **   Note: Make each panel with a slightly wider bottom panel
width. Use dimension 'LE' for a trial layout and be sure the 'B' dimension
at 'L' distance from the top of the panel is accurate at this line.